lapsedmodernist: (Default)
[personal profile] lapsedmodernist
I realized that I never wrote about my Christmas trip to the US, so here are the highlights, along with photos.

I left home in exhausted chaos of end-of-semester crap and missing passport awfulness, and made my way to Amsterdam where I paid my tax on my own stupidity, and picked up my new passport with a photo that is far less flattering than the wide-eyed photo of my 23-year old self taken in a mobile "photo studio," which was basically a sketchy van outside the American consulate in Guatemala City. I had dinner with Niki and Alana, and slept over at Alana's, waking up at some ungodly hour for my flight to Boston, where I arrived, exhausted, and made my way to [livejournal.com profile] redheadedmuse's house, where I decompressed for 24 hours, caught up and gossiped with her and [livejournal.com profile] thoroughbass, ate delicious homemade yoghurt, participated in a photo extravaganza downstairs at [livejournal.com profile] mzrowan's house, and took some other random photos, of which I like this one the best:

sierra

The next day I made my way to New York City, after some confusion with busses (Bolt Bus or Megabus, can't remember which, had relocated their pick=up location from South Station to Back Bay since the last time I had availed myself of their services, trying to figure out who had tickets for what time was confusing, finally I went with my old buddy Lucky Star, lured by their promises of new exciting on-board wifi, of which there was no evidence in reality, but it did get me to NYC in a reasonable amount of time).

For the next almost-a-week I proceeded to camp out on [livejournal.com profile] apropos' air mattress (with one night's exception--more about that in a second) in La Casa de [livejournal.com profile] apropos and [livejournal.com profile] missmimesis and also the former official/current de facto casa de [livejournal.com profile] msmsgirl, basking in the glow of nightly Hannukah candles, and the shimmering of the Christmas Ideology Tree (thusly named because the top decoration on the tree looked to us like a Deleuzean rhizome).

barb
[livejournal.com profile] aprpose, with tree in the background

menorah
The Menorah

We ate Thai food and sushi, spent hours at a retro-ish Morningside Heights diner with [livejournal.com profile] apropos' friend Gorgeous whom I had finally met, played in the snow, went to a party. Also in the midst of all of this I went to see the movie adaptation of "Youth In Revolt" with [livejournal.com profile] totalvirility, who had screen passes. Anyone who knows me knows that this has been one of my favorite books since my senior year of high school, back when it was still totally a cult favorite. It had been TotalV's favorite since freshman year of college, when I lent it to him. We were both appalled by the adaptation, but I guess it was inevitable. It is impossible to make that book into a Hollywood movie, even an "edgy" Hollywood movie.As I was explaining to [livejournal.com profile] theophile today, basically the characters in that book are completely sociopathic, which makes the over-the-top, absurd, sociopathic behavior that they engage in towards each other and the world in general, funny. It's like a morality equivalent of suspension of disbelief. You cannot be bothered by all of the totally sociopathic actions, because they are doing it to other totally sociopathic people. But in the movie, they "humanized" the main characters, Nick and Sheeni, they made him this kind of crazy romantic guy, and her basically a desperately bored romantic precocious teen, stifled in her uber-Christian family, while toning down the sociopathy enough that it no longer has the madcap absurd sheen that makes the book stand apart, but retaining enough of it that with the newly humanized characters, the matter-of-fact way in which they dole it out and accept it seems confusing and inappropriate. Basically, read the book, it's hilarious, the movie sucks.

ANYway. here are [livejournal.com profile] missmimesis and [livejournal.com profile] msmsgirl

aandcbw
on the fire escape

aandc2
and with a switcheroo in the focus

abigailsittingbw
[livejournal.com profile] missmimesis again

My second or third day in NYC I went to see my beautiful singer friend [livejournal.com profile] akozorez (who gifted me with the most amazing, warmest, most beautiful hand-made Victorian-ish, steampunk-ish neck warmer) in the village, where outside of Yaffa we discovered the following message, which I suspected the Universe was sending her way:

powerul

powerful2
here she is contemplating it

yaffa
our kitschy fairyland, Yaffa

In the winter there are all kinds of fairlyland windows all over the East Village.

salon2
here is one

amemirror
I went to the Strand

and bought the following books: Revenge by Mary Morris who is kind of hit or miss for me, but I keep reading everything she writes, although so far she hasn't written anything better than Night Sky, but it's the sort of slow psychological suspense study that I like, with my favorite themes of memory and obsession, then China Mieville's The Scar which I finally finished, and liked a lot, but not as much as Perdido Street Station, and The Glister which I got because I had read it mentioned on [livejournal.com profile] jactitation's year-end meme, the synopsis sounded interesting, but unfortunately it went AWOL in [livejournal.com profile] theophile's parents' house and so I haven't read it. I almost bought The Year of the Flood but it was pricy and heavy, and in the end I didn't.

Oh--so the one night I did not spent in Morningside Heights, I spent, improbably, at the W hotel in midtown, where my college friend who is now a Fancy Lawyer got a room for the night, as she drove in from Philadelphia to see me. It was so wonderful to see her and catch up. But oh my god the hotel! obviously, because of my lifestyle choices it is not often that I end up immersed in total American Psycho Corporate Hell, so it was sort of an ethnographically interesting experience, but also so over the top that it wasn't just my usual finely attuned Matrix geiger counter that was beeping, that place was like this parody of a place.

Please picture this: the only color schemes used in the entire hotel are gray and black. Primarily gray. The carpet is gray, the paint is gray with some black, the bed sheets are gray and black. The soap is gray. The jelly beans are gray. The CONDOMS, packaged together with a "gynocological napkin" (that's what it was called) were also gray. The gray jelly beans and the gray condoms, by the way, were stationed together with sad-looking cashews and some gray (I kid you not) candy with a sign that said "this surface is equipped with electronic sensors; as soon as you move any of the packages, your credit card will be charged." The towels were gray. The menu was gray and had insane euphemistic options, where it was impossible to understand what food was actually being offered. To top it all off, the hotel was undergoing some kind of "facelift" (sic) which meant that as a part of the facade construction there was a (gray) rope swinging melancholically outside our window, back and forth, back and forth, casting a giant gray shadow of a swinging rope across the gray wall. Just in case you weren't already thinking of killing yourself.

As a counter-part to the gray hotel I spent some time in my erstwhile workplace, The Peace Pentagon, a.k.a. the War Resisters' League building on Lafayette, where the Deep Dish TV (and Paper Tiger TV) offices are located, up the stairs decorated with signs that date back to the Vietnam anti-war movement. I saw Maoist Boss, who is awesome as ever, and his amazing stepdaughter, who is more awesome than ever, whom I last saw as she was heading off to Stanford. She is now finishing Stanford, and is this brilliant, effervescent young woman, who was telling us about a reproductive/sexual health research project she did in Kenya, with a sophistication that led Babs and me to tell her that she should consider becoming a medical anthropologist, but she really wants to go to medical school and be a doctor so that she can perform abortions for women who have a hard time accessing those services. She is really a wonder. More like her, please.

Oh, and related to Maoist Boss but also to EVERYTHING ELSE, pnts moved to New York!!! At first it looked like we would miss each other by like a day but then it turned out that she got there at the same time I got there, and we were reunited! I finally met her husband, and we squealed and beeped at each other and acted in our usual delighted-goofy seeing each other way. And she wore my new rainbow hat at a brunch place in Williamsburg:

pnts

And we went for drinks to some crossover NYU/dive bar on Spring (I think) with her and [livejournal.com profile] apropos and after that for DELICIOUS PIEROGIES at Odessa.

odessa

I also had all too brief but wonderful time seeing [livejournal.com profile] labrujah and [livejournal.com profile] klingrap (and scared the crap out of the latter, I think, by having an allergic reaction to "milk tea" at St. Alf's Teahouse on 13th street, and really, Teahouse Staff, if your customer asks you what was in the tea because her throat is closing up saying "oh, I don't know, it's some kind of non-dairy mixture in a big vat so I can't look up the ingredients for you" is not the correct response), went to Beacon's Closet, missed some people I hope to see next time, saw erstwhile Chair and sadly missed [livejournal.com profile] cyberanya who decamped for Germany on the very day I arrived, and Ms. Palindrome who I had thought was away, but apparently was not. Alas.

After NYC I made my way back to Boston on a bus that took like eleventy billion hours to get back to Boston, spent a truncated night in Newburyport before getting up at 3.30 AM to catch the airport shuttle to Logan again, with Fionn, to visit my parents in Chicago, where Fionn had his first Christmas tree experience. That was great, despite a fiasco with a promised train set (somehow instead of the approved Brio wooden train set a made-in-China Thomas the Engine crapola was purchased, from the same line that was recalled in 2007 for lead in the paint). Fionn also kept putting on ALL OF MY MOTHER' S JEWELRY AT ONCE which I photodocumented:

fionnjewelry2

fionnjewelry3

fionnjewelry4

After five days there we came back to Boston, rather late in the evening, and headed to [livejournal.com profile] beginnersmind's house, where Fionn was reunited with his first ever real playmate from their wee days, Maiya, who was born mere days after him in the same birth center, in the same room.

maiyajulie
[livejournal.com profile] beginnersmind and Maiya

maiyafionncrawling
Maiya and Fionn, in the background

Maiya had these awesome helium balloons that Fionn was entranced with:

fionnbaloontangle

fionnthrilled

fionnstar

fionnballoons

Then I dropped Fionn off with [livejournal.com profile] theophile, went to see my chiropractor, Dr. Marty, in Wellesley, saw, in a whirlwind, a bunch of other friends and nears and dears, and, gloriously, was escorted to the airport by the lovely [livejournal.com profile] legitimatelove and her little ones, and I am so happy I got to catch up with her, even if it was too rushed/hectic/not enough time.

But with friends, and loved ones, and loved cities, it is always not enough time.

And then the next day I was in Berlin for new year's, and I was jet-lagged and sick for much of the time I was there, basically after the first night/day my hosts and I were all sick and just chilled out and took group baths in Neukolln (which is why I didn't get in touch with the two of you I meant to see--[livejournal.com profile] heresiarch and [livejournal.com profile] shaherezada), and then my rideshare to Dusseldorf took so long because of the snow on the roads that I missed the last train home and spent the night in the Dusseldorf train station, which, as I discovered, pretty much occupies the same demographic/existential zip code as the American Greyhound stations at night. As I was telling my friend/coworker pH about the neo-nazi dude tweaking on meth who kept approaching me and standing in front of me, but I wouldn't raise my eyes from my book to look at him, so basically it was like his crotch kept sailing into my field of vision, and then moving away, and the two Turkish dudes blowing up condoms and popping them (all this accompanied by running racist commentary from two appalled middle-aged Russian women who kept talking to, presumably, their families on a cell phone and saying things like "it's like a zoo, every race of monkeys is represented"), he asked, in all seriousness, if I wasn't scared, because Dusseldorf train station at night is such a scary place.

This is funny not only because out of all the sketchy places I've been in my life, Dusseldorf train station isn't even on the map, but also (and mostly) because in two weeks he is leaving his sheltered bougie apartment and his cello and going to Kinshasa to visit his fiancee for two months. When I told her about his totally serious scared-for-me query about the train station, she joked that it would be funny to leave him in the Kinshasa airport for a couple of hours after arrival.

He is a sweetie, though. I hope he fares well in the DRC!

Date: 2010-01-20 11:19 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] trochee.livejournal.com
wow, what a great travelogue.

That second picture of fionn with all the jewelry on -- man, that kid is already a total rock star. what a great camera presence.

Date: 2010-01-20 11:19 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] trochee.livejournal.com
whoops, I mean third.

Date: 2010-01-21 04:54 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lapsedmodernist.livejournal.com
he knows how to mug for the camera, it's true. that comes with being heavily photo and videodocumented since pretty much birth.

Date: 2010-01-21 12:25 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] creed-of-hubris.livejournal.com
If you liked The Scar (probably the weakest of Mieville's novels), you'll probably like Iron Council (the most Trotskyist) and The City and the City (the most Borgesian, not set in the same universe as Perdido)

Date: 2010-01-21 01:02 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] boobirdsfly.livejournal.com
Loved reading and looking at this post~!

Date: 2010-01-21 02:51 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] blergeatkitty.livejournal.com
The sidewalk art is by De La Vega - he has a studio/shop on St. Mark's and goes out to chalk up the sidewalks pretty much daily. We actually have a piece by him in our living room. My favorite platitude of his is, "the world is conspiring in your favor."

Date: 2010-01-21 04:57 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lapsedmodernist.livejournal.com
ah, that makes sense, now that I think about it, that fish is totally his style. Also for some reason it never occurred to me before how De La Vega is the same type of urban messenger as Jennie Holzer, albeit in different execution.

Date: 2010-01-21 03:06 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] http://users.livejournal.com/_swallow/
I would watch the TV show of your life.

Date: 2010-01-21 04:58 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lapsedmodernist.livejournal.com
if nothing else, I would hope the sets would be pretty and sparkly.

Date: 2010-01-21 04:37 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] labrujah.livejournal.com
love your sparkly photos! Fionn is looking more beautiful than ever.

Date: 2010-01-21 04:58 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lapsedmodernist.livejournal.com
thanks dear! It was good to be back in the New York sparkle...

almost crossed paths?

Date: 2010-01-21 04:50 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] neverdreamofme.livejournal.com
Okay, based on your photos, I think we may have been at the Strand within a very short time of each other... snow just starting? That Saturday before xmas? I hit the Strand around 4:30 or 5 that day to browse and boggle my head with books, and meet up with friends. I was standing watch on one of the staircase balconies, keeping an eye out for a friend of mine, although he proceeded to walk up right behind me and grab me, without me seeing him. I am obviously not a good sentinel - hell, you might have been in the Strand at the same time I was, and I didn't see you! Anyway, I totally suspect we were there around the same time!
Lovely pics of Mr. Fionn, too :)

Re: almost crossed paths?

Date: 2010-01-21 05:00 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lapsedmodernist.livejournal.com
ha, we were TOTALLY at The Strand at the same time!

Small New York. Wish I had seen you!

Date: 2010-01-21 06:22 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] monkey1976.livejournal.com
loved this post. i live in the neighborhood and eat brunch at yaffa and get my hair cut at the salon you showed in the photo. i also walked past the fish drawing and took a picture and stopped and stared at it. the weather was very similar to the weather in the photos you took. i wonder how close we were (if at all) to bumping into each other?

Date: 2010-02-01 07:28 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lapsedmodernist.livejournal.com
maybe we even passed each other on the street :) I used to basically live in Yaffa when I lived in NYC, and I still go there every time I am in the city. I get my hair cut at Kropps and Bobbers on Ludlow, thought, since...2002?

Date: 2010-02-01 07:28 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lapsedmodernist.livejournal.com
though, even.

Date: 2010-01-21 09:39 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] boymaenad.livejournal.com
nice to read you!

I will be in New York the first couplea weeks of Feb. I've not been there in cold weather since I was like 10; what do you recommend for activities? :)

Date: 2010-02-01 07:29 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lapsedmodernist.livejournal.com
mmmm, watching the snow from cozy cafes, thrifting, if there is snow, Central Park in the snow...

Date: 2010-01-21 09:54 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] heresiarch.livejournal.com
the weather over NYE was pretty crap -- we had some friends from Amsterdam visiting, and it took them 12 hours to drive home a couple of days later.

anyhow, sorry to have missed you, but i hope we can make it up some other time!

Date: 2010-01-22 12:42 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lady3jane.livejournal.com
Sounds like a lovely trip! I wish I'd been able to see you :( I just got back from NYC/NH/BOS, but you were already back in Europe when I began my trip. Did get to see Pnts though! And give her your photo, which looks SO beautiful mounted and framed. I can't wait till you get to see it.
Page generated Feb. 24th, 2026 06:21 pm
Powered by Dreamwidth Studios