magic to be found?

My friend really wants me to go to Istanbul with her for a weekend in November. I feel ambivalent--I am really worn out still from all the summer travel but might be into going if it's an amazing place I should absolutely see. I think I am unlikely to go there on my own.
You people read my livejournal, you know what I like. I don't care about museums or "official" cultural artifacts, but I love colorful bustling energetic photogenic cities with magic and mystery, a flaneur's paradise. Is that Istanbul?
Thoughts?